If you ever find yourself in Seoul, it’s hard to miss the unusual items scattered throughout subway stations—gas masks, for example. In most places, this would seem out of place, but in South Korea, it’s a reminder of the ongoing tension with neighboring North Korea. The Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), just 50km away, marks one of the most heavily guarded borders in the world, and the country remains technically at war.

Despite the heavy military presence, you can take a tour close to the border if you’re curious. These tours must be booked through authorised tour groups, and there’s a good chance your hotel will have brochures with information. So, we had the hotel reception book us a few seats on the bus for the next morning!


We opted for the morning trip, which meant an early wake-up call, as the coach made stops to pick up more visitors from other hotels. Be sure to bring your passport, as your identity will be checked by military personnel on the bus before crossing into the restricted area. The drive takes about an hour through the scenic Korean countryside. The tour guide will keep you entertained with fascinating facts, or you can use the time to catch up on some much-needed sleep!




There are several stops along the route, including Memorial Park, which is filled with tributes to those who lost their lives during the Korean War. We were given some time to explore the park before moving on to the most daring part of the tour. If you’re up for it, you can venture underground to explore the infiltration tunnels built as smuggling routes between the borders. Be mindful of the low ceilings and the dripping water! One of the most intriguing stops is the abandoned Dorasan Train Station, part of a rail route that was once intended to connect the Korean Peninsula all the way to Europe via Siberia. Although the political situation makes this seem unlikely in the near future, there’s hope that one day the region could be united, especially for the sake of its citizens.



Our tour ended with a stop at a local ginseng center on the way back to Seoul. However, this felt more like a tourist trap designed to part you with some cash. The staff were a bit overbearing and seemed overly eager to make a sale. I’m sure you can find ginseng at a better price elsewhere! Despite this last stop, the rest of the tour was a fantastic opportunity to visit a place rich in history and full of hope for the future








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